Indonesia

Indonesia - July 2012

Throughout the spring semester I dreamed of a summer vacation without dissertations, work, email, and the stresses of responsibility. I was not sure when or if the vacation would come, but I remained faithful that I would be able to take a vacation to celebrate the completion of my dissertation and the start of my new life post editing. (perhaps that's why the publishing of these blogs have taken so long to write, and why they lack fine editing skill) :)

The Qatar Foundation is very generous in vacation allowances and I had the unusual circumstance of having too many days and no formal plan on how I would use them. That was until I got an unexpected email from a friend, Jill. We've known each other through a mutual friend, but hadn't really had a chance to really spend much time together. Conferences were too busy for long conversations and my time in Education City was too structured with "sorry I am working on my dissertation" responses to social invites. Therefore, I was delighted to receive Jill's invite to travel to Indonesia with her. She had a high school friend living there now and was interested in a beach get away. That sounded perfect to me. (previous post dissertation planning included a beach vacation after the completion of my dissertation, so I was please to fulfil this dream.)

 

Jill and I at a local Doha breakfast tradition.

Jill and I had several planning sessions about the vacation... (most of which she planned because I was still too loopy after my dissertation.) Thankfully she enjoys the planning process and I am super flexible so I think that was a good match. We booked the tickets (not direct so we can save a few bucks) . The best part of the plan required a stop in Dubai and therefore a mandatory stop at the Pinkberry counter for frozen yogurt (one of my absolute favorites!)

Katie and Jill off on an Indonesian Adventure (thanks to Jill's planning.)

Once in Dubai, we boarded the plane around 3am and promptly fell asleep. Around 5am, Jill and I awoke to the plane, still grounded at the gate in Dubai. We were fogged in. Who knew that fog was a problem when you live in the desert? Jill, being the realist, noticed that we would miss our next domestic flight. I, the eternal optimist, thought we would make up the time during the 9 hour flight. Turns out Jill was right. We arrived in time to catch the flight but very long lines in the visa and immigration lines held us getting to the next flight. Because we had preboked our domestic tickets, and hotel in the next location, we lost the money for both and had to stay in Jakarta for the night. Seeing how it was late, we tried to get a hotel at the airport. Then, we were informed that the hotel had just booked the last room. What do you do when your plans are demolished and it is hot and humid outside? That's right, Kentucky Fried Chicken. As we rode the buss through the different terminals, we noticed several KFC locations and both of us craved a little bit of home. (I can't tell you the last time I had KFC, but it was probably with Grandma Wildman and my mom a few years ago for one of our girl dates.)  Jill was craving mashed potatoes and I, slaw. Both of us were ambivalent about the chicken. When we arrived, we promptly went up to the counter to order. Their response: "I am sorry we don't have mashed potatoes." "I am sorry we don't have slaw either." It appears the only side you can get with chicken is plain white rice in Indonesia.  So what do you do when you've missed your flight, hotel and famed home-style vegetables? That's right, you go to A&W for a root-beer float. They had the real deal and Jill and I throughally enjoyed the refreshing beverage while we strategized plan B. We purchased domestic tickets (again) for the next day. 

On our way back from the restaurant we happened to pass by the hotel again and reasked if rooms were available. This time, they had an opening! We booked the room immediately (lesson: always ask more that twice to make sure the information is correct) and proceeded toward the tiny room. When we arrived, the notice on the room said that the power was expected to go out for several hous in the evening. This wasn't a major problem, except that the hotel had no opening windows and the room was very hot. Both of us were exhausted and thankful for the room, so the power outage didn't matter. I set my alarm and we went to bed immediately.

I wish I could say that was the end of the travel woes. Unfortunately it was not. My alarm was set inappropriately, because unfortunalty I didn't change the time zone. Thankfully, Jill being the brilliant person that she is, had set a backup alarm. We awoke on time and headed down the terminal to the shuttle. All along we had been hearing confusion about which terminal we should visit. Even the shuttle driver in the morning insisted that we stop off at the wrong one. We, being the tired travelers that we were, did not want to opt for a Plan C, and we made sure that we got to the right one.  We got there in enough time to get a boarding pass and check in, but the lines were astronomically long...and we're not moving.  I'll spare the long version and tell you that we stood in line the check in for over 2 hours. The airline (which had just started the hourly runs to Bali in the last few days) was still adjusting and their staff, was having what a consultant might call a "lack of leadership moment." Not only did we miss our flight but the two flights before ours also missed their flights because of the checkin issues. Jill, as the resident photographer, captured the mishaps on film. My favorite is this guy, who after flighting for such a long time, took a seat behind the counter and waited for his ticket.

Waiting for tickets in Jakarta Airport. What a cultural experience!
At another moment, the staff collected all of the reservations from the passengers and piled them in a stack. Then an angry passenger took the stack of tickets (where ours was included) and held them hostage while he made the man issue his ticket then he returned all of the other tickets (probably a good 50 in the stack). When we finally got to the gate, we were friends with all of the other passengers and when the flight took off we were delighted. The 2 hour flight to Bali was a breeze and when we got there we hired a cab for the 1.5 hour journey to Ubud, an artists colony north of the airport.

It always amazes me how many people you can fit on a motorbike. And how kids can sleep anywhere!

Our cottage window.

Outdoor bath area! 

We arrived at the fantastic swasti eco cottages and were greeted by the warm and friendly staff. 

The name of our room

However, they informed us that although we had booked and paid for the hotel, they had been doubled booked and we could only stay one night there. The hotel assured us they would rebook us in a local place. Regardless, we were glad to be there and by this time were open to however the universe might direct us. :)

Ubud is a fantastic little town, made famous by it's Hindu Heritage, hospitalble people and a little book called Eat, Pray, Love (a book recommended by Steve but one that although I had tried to read, I hadn't been able to finish. I had however seen the movie countless times). Ubud is a magical place. A spiritual place. A place of healing. Perhaps that is why many yogi's visit it for month long courses and visa extension shops line the main drag. It is a place that you want to go and a place that you are drawn to stay. It should be noted that Jill and I didn't set out to include Ubud in our stay. However, when Jill's friend Rachael said that she would be there taking a yoga course instead of staying at her beach house, we decided to stop by for a visit.  This is what you call serendipity. We LOVED Ubud. Nestled among the rice patties and terraces, Ubud, is an oasis of organic, friendly, peaceful people. We loved it so much, we altered our original plan and stayed an extra day (even though it didn't have a beach as we had originally planned.)

Flooding of the rice fields 

Little boys taking a bath at the temple

The holy temple

Women needed to wear skirts at the temple.

While there we met Rachel, Jill's friend from high school. She was lovely and the whole trip was a healing adventure for all of us. We learned about Rachel's adventures in Indonesia (she traveled there to help with coral restoration and fell in love...needless to say, we wanted the full scoop!) It seemed that all three of us were on some sort of a journey. A journey into finding something that directed us to the next step. For Rachel, a vision for her island-bound future, for Jill, a new job and life in the states and for me, a connection to the future (or something like that). It was a meaningful visit and one that I hope to repeat sometime in my life. Bali, as my friend Julie says, is an amazing place. Now I understand why.

Rachel and Jill.

While in Ubud, Jill and I visited the monkey forest, a safe haven for thousands of moneys. Luckily we didn't take food, as they can smell it immediately and are ruthless in getting anything that smells! Both Jill and I ventured in and were able to capture a few pictures of the little, but adventurous ones. It seems they are having no problems propagating!

We ate some fantastic meals while in Ubud including a little organic cafe where the buffet was served on leaves (talk about organic!). The food was incredible and well worth the small hike over rice patties and streams to get to.

 

 

We also visited an organic spa in the middle of the rice field that offered amazing massages and organic spa products (including the best smelling and effective insect repellant that I have ever used!)

 

We also had a chance to visit one of the local markets. And I had a chance to buy some fabrics...I was excited!

So many beautiful fabrics, so little time! (Thankfully, Jill and Rachel didn't mind!)

And of course, I found a few peices of art that I picked up from the artist themselves!

 

 

One of the coolest things that Jill and I did while in Ubud was make our own silver rings. Seeing it recommended on trip advisor, we signed up for an afternoon with a silversmith at his homestudio, I think the pictures below show the best chronically order of the experience

 

   

Jill worked on cutting out a shape on her ring. 

  
I hammered in words for the inside of mine. 

Then came the process of using a manual (foot pedal) propane torch to bed the two ends together.

Finally it is completed!

Clearly the ring adventure was a success and Jill and I were both pleased with our outcomes. I choose a simple hammered pattern with the five goals for the year hammered in the inside. Jill choose an elaborate tree pattern. Both of those rings have meaning for us.  About this time, the family started to prepare the chicken dinner. (FYI, they didn't go to the freezer to get the chicken). So we left but truly enjoyed our day! It pwas a fantastic afternoon in a typical Hindu household compound.

One of the neatest events was the night that Rachel invited us to visit her at her rented home. It was a fantastic house owned by an expat working remotely from Indonesia. I snapped a few photos of her incredible home. Although neither Rachel or Jill knew my affection for baths (or that I had written the majority of my dissertation from my mine) Rachel invited me to take bath in the outdoor tub made of stone. She asked twice and I aceptded. It gave a chance for Jill and Rachel to chat and also gave me a chance to meditate in my favorite spot.  

You can imagine my surprise when I  looked up to notice the full moon peeking behind the clouds. I tried to take some pictures, but something's are best left in my memory. It was a healing moment for me (those that know me know that the full moon represents an important time in my life, one that I cherish.)

After extending our stay an additional day, we decided it was time to head to the Gili islands. We said our goodbyes to Rachel and took a van and ferry to the islands. The water was beautiful and I hung my head off the side just to catch the breeze.

The Gili islands are a group of three islands. Lombak is the largest. We stayed on Gili T... (the remaining one is Gili Air). You know you are remote when the boat pulls up to the island and your job is to wade to the shoreline. (luckily they off loaded our bags for us so they were dry). There is one pier on the island but why use it when getting your feet wet is the main reason you are going? I don't think the pier is used by anyone these days.

  

Rachel has a friend on island and she encouraged us to visit Acheck to borrow bikes and show us to her house. She had just build a new place and we were delighted to have a free place to hang our hats. We hopped on the bikes and peddled our way to Rachel's house. A. Right turn by then ice cream/coffee/wifi/sandwich shop, then to the water tank a right, then to the fence with the goats, a left, the cut through the field with the cow, right at the saw dust pile, then find the opening to the bamboo fence... We were glad we had a guide.

 

Katie and Acheck for dinner at the market!

Rachel's house was perfect and it was great to stay in a local abode. I took some pictures so you can see the open air house and no roof bathroom. One of the best parts of the stay was a VERY large gecko (maybe 10 inches) who is providing hostapiality services. A little unnerved at first, the lizard hung out in the bathroom at night making very loud croaks. As the days continued, I became more and more a fan. When we would turn off the lights, the geko would then come and crawl down the window to east the bugs. Because we were on the inside, we would watch his white belly quickly swish from side to side to catch the protein of the night. Mosquitos were on the other side of the food chain at Rachel's house. :)

The days on Gili are a blurr of relaxation and good food. We tried several restaurants and always enjoyed the local fare.  My favorite was a vegetable skewer with full veggies (tomato, corn, onion...) it was grilled and fantastic. I also loved the local vegetable stir fried noodles with chili peanut sauce. For all of Acheck's  help, we took him to the local market. He picked a fish and we watched them make it. One of the fish even resembled my sun burn!

Another highlight of the Gilis  was snorkeling. We took a glass bottom boat into the crystal clear waters to see huge wild sea turtles swimming around.  The second stop we snorkeled around the local coral. While most of it was white and brown, we did see some beautiful bright blue and green coral. It should also be noted that Jill pointed out a blue banded snake nestled in the corals. (we later found out those were poisonous!) 

We stopped for lunch at nearby Gili Air and enjoyed the view.  The waves were tremendously high and our little boat rocked at the mercy of the waters. Several folks on the trip weren't interested in lunch, if you know what I mean. Jill and I were fine and truly enjoyed the day. Jill later did a scuba drive and I enjoyed coffee at a local place on the beach. We both finished several books and enjoyed the carefree nature of the place jut sitting at the beach, watching the waters roll in and out.

Oh, yeah, and there was that moment when the strong current ( several people have died in it) tried to sweep away the boat anchored intense beach. A visitor saw it pulling away and got in the water to pull it back. Seein grim struggle,ni jumped in too followed by Jill before a few other locals helped out. We probably had six people on it before we gained some sorting control. The current was fierce. We had just gotten it under control and swat back down when the anchor came undone again. We lept to save it again. And then fir a third time. Our hands were now sore from grabbing the salty rope and my legs and arms were trembling. The current is trechorurs. Tins time,nwe got the actor pulled father up the beach and secured by a board. With no official piers I have to imagine that folks sometimes lose their boats to thseaws's calling.

Another adventure included a nippy cycle ride around the island. Gilli T. I should say, is a pedestrian only island. No cars. The only other transportation is that of small yourself drawn carts. Jill And i had heard we could bike around the island so we set off for a little exercise. The island was beautiful but riding a bike through then sand is not an efficient experience.  The views were outstanding and the exercise much appreciated.

Before we knew it, our vacation was over. The first boat to lombok was full and left before the scheduled departure (typical for this island culture) so Acheck and some friends helped hire another small boat to get us to Lombak. 

Then we shared a van with the crew, dropping them off on the main island as their stop approached. We reached the airport about 2 hours later just in time for our easy check in and flight to Jakarta (where we had another A&W rootbeer float) and then to Dubai where we had another pinkberry and then to back to Doha. Indonesia offered more than expected in terms of culture, beauty, and people. It wouldn't have been a place that I would have oringinally sought after, but now, it will be a place I will long to revisit. Until next time, namestay...